ACTIVE MIXTURES

专利摘要:
active mixtures. the present invention relates to an active mixture comprising: (a) 1,2-hexanediol and (b) 1,2-octanediol.
公开号:BR102016000795B1
申请号:R102016000795-0
申请日:2016-01-14
公开日:2021-04-13
发明作者:Erhard Schmaus；Sabine Lange
申请人:Symrise Ag；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention belongs to the field of cosmetics and refers to active mixtures that consist of two selected 1,2-alkanediols, compositions that comprise said assets and their specific applications. TECHNICAL STATUS
[0002] Emulsions are one of the most important types of formulation for all kinds of skin care products with a wide range of applications. For this reason, the development of formulations with excellent physical and microbial stability is a major challenge in relation to the cosmetics industry.
[0003] Due to legal restrictions or negative aspects in the press the number of acceptable substances for microbial stabilization is limited. For this reason, more and more traditional preservatives are being replaced in whole or in part by multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial properties.
[0004] Along with the antimicrobial efficacy, the physicochemical stability of the emulsions is yet another important factor in relation to product development.
[0005] Finally, the sensory profile of the cosmetic product is of the utmost importance in relation to consumer acceptance. Specifically, the ability to spread, absorption and sensation in the skin are important parameters that contribute to the total performance of cosmetic formulations after being applied to the skin. The faster the body oils of an emulsion are spread over the skin, the better the consumer’s perception. The spreading behavior of a composition - and for that reason its sensory profile - is linked to the average particle size of the composition's droplets. The smaller the droplets are, the faster the scattering. As a consequence, there is still a need with regard to additives that allow changing the particle size distribution to lower values. Also, the particle size is an important parameter in relation to the stability of the emulsion: the smaller the droplets of the dispersed phase, the better the physical-chemical stability.
[0006] According to International Patent Application WO 2003 069994 A1 it is known that mixtures of alkanediols of different chain lengths have a synergistically increased microbial effect compared to pure 1,2-alkanediols. However, the document neither teaches nor suggests the use of diols for modifying the particle size distribution within an emulsion in the direction of smaller droplets.
[0007] For this reason, the objective of the present invention has been to provide assets to be used in cosmetic, pharmaceutical and or dermatological emulsions that simultaneously: • provide antimicrobial stability, • change the average particle size within the composition towards smaller droplets, and • improve the sensory profile, specifically with regard to the ability to spread, absorb and feel the skin. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0008] The purpose of the present invention is an active mixture comprising 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol.
[0009] Surprisingly, it has been observed that mixtures of 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol, preferably in equal amounts, completely solve the complex problem explained above. Specifically, the binary mixture exhibits a synergistic behavior with respect to antimicrobial activity, decreases the average droplet size and the sensory profile when added to a cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical composition. 1,2-ALKANODIOLS
[00010] 1,2-alkanedioles are well-known cosmetic ingredients that can be obtained, for example, through the epoxidation of terminal olefins followed by ring cleavage with the use of water. Regarding synergistic activity, the best results were obtained with mixtures in which the two components (a) and (b) were present in a weight ratio of from about 25:75 to about 75:25 and more specific in a weight ratio from about 40:60 to about 60:40, even more specific in a weight ratio of about 5050. EMULSIONS
[00011] Another object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprising a synergistic mixture of 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-hexanediol as described above. Preferably said composition is a composition for skin care, hair care, sun care or personal care.
[00012] Preferably the composition is an emulsion, specifically said emulsion being an oil-in-water (o / w) emulsion, a water-in-oil (w / o) emulsion or a multiple emulsion (a / o / a or o / a / o).
[00013] Typically, said emulsions exhibit an average particle size in which • 10% by volume shows a diameter of less than 2 μm (preferably less than 0.5 μm), • 50% by volume shows a diameter less than 5 μm (preferably less than 2 μm, and • 90% by volume show a diameter of less than 15 μm (preferably less than 12 μm). COMPOSITION OF COSMETICS OR PERSONAL CARE
[00014] Another object of the present invention encompasses a cosmetic or personal care composition comprising the binary mixture of 1,2-alkanedioles. The cosmetic or personal care composition may represent a product for skin care, hair care and / or sun care, such as, for example, a cream, lotion, spray, emulsion, ointment, gel or mouse cosmetic and the like. Typical examples are skin creams and hair shampoos, antiperspirants and soaps.
[00015] The preparations according to the invention may contain abrasives, anti-acne agents, preservatives, anti-aging agents, anti-cellulite agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-inflammatory agents, irritation prevention agents, irritation inhibiting agents , antioxidants, astringents, deodorants, sweat inhibiting agents, antiseptic agents, antistatic agents, binders, tampons, carrier materials, chelating agents, cell stimulants, cleaning agents, care agents, hair removal agents, active substances surface agents, deodorants, antiperspirants, softeners, emulsifiers, enzymes, essential oils, fibers, film-forming agents, softeners, foaming agents, foam stabilizers, substances to prevent foaming, foam enhancers, gelling agents, gel forming agents, hair care agents, baking agents hair straightening, hair straightening agents, moisture donating agents, humidifying substances, moisture retaining substances, bleaching agents, reinforcing agents, stain removal agents, optical brightening agents, impregnating agents, dirt repellent agents, friction reducing agents, lubricants, humidifying creams, ointments, opacifying agents, plasticizing agents, coating agents, polishing, gloss agents, polymers, powders, proteins, relubrication agents, agents abrasion agents, silicones, skin soothing agents, skin cleansing agents, skin care agents, skin healing agents, skin lightening agents, skin protection agents, skin softening agents, promotion agents hair, cooling agents, skin cooling agents, heating agents, skin heating agents, stabilizers, UV absorbing agents, UV filters, detain people, tissue conditioning agents, suspending agents, skin tanning agents, thickeners, vitamins, oils, waxes, fats, phospholipids, saturated fatty acids, mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acids, a-hydroxy acids, fatty acids polyhydroxy, liquefying agents, coloring materials, color protection agents, pigments, anticorrosives, flavors, flavoring substances, odorous substances, polyols, surfactants, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives and the like as additional auxiliaries and additives. SURFACES
[00016] Preferred auxiliaries and additives are anionic and / or amphoteric or zwiterionic surfactants. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzene sulphonates, alkane sulphonates, olefin sulphonates, alkyl ether sulphonates, glycerol ether sulphonates, methyl ester sulphonates, sulphates, alkyl sulphates, sulphates fatty acid ether, glyceryl ether sulphates, fatty acid ether sulphates, mixed hydroxy ether sulphates, mono-glyceride (ether) sulphates, fatty acid (ether) amide sulphates, mono- and dialkyl sulpho-sulfosuccinates , mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether of carboxylic acids and salts thereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids, such as, for example, lactylates acyl, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglycoside sulphates, fatty acid protein condensates (specifically wheat-based plant products) and phosphate s (ether) of alkyl. If the anionic surfactant contains polyglycol ether chains they may have a conventional homologous distribution although they preferably have a narrow range homologous distribution. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaine, alkyl starch betaine, amine propionate, amino glycinates, imidazolinium betaine and sulfo betaine. The mentioned surfactants are all known compounds. Information regarding their structure and production can be found in relevant synoptic works such as, for example, J. Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pages 54 to 124 or J. Falbe (ed.), "Katalysatoren, Tenside und Mineraloladditive (Catalysts, Surfactants and Mineral Oil Additives)", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pages 123-217. The percentage content of surfactants in the preparations can be from 0.1 to 10% by weight and is preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight based on the preparation. OIL BODIES
[00017] Suitable oil bodies that form the constituents of oil-in-water emulsions are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of C6-C22 linear fatty acids with C6-C22 linear or branched fatty alcohols, or esters of C6-C13 carboxylic acids branched with C6-C22 linear or branched fatty alcohols, such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl erate cetyl, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isoe stearate stearyl, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl stearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl behenate behenila myristate, behenila palmitate, behenila stearate, behenila isostearate, behenila oleate, behenila erucate, erucila myristate, erucila palmitate, erucilla stearate, erucila isostearate, oleate erucila behenato and erucila erucato. Also suitable are esters of C6-C22-linear fatty acids with branched alcohols, specifically 2-ethylhexanol, C18-C38 acid-alkylhydroxy carboxylic esters with C6-C 22- linear or branched fatty alcohols, specifically Malate Dioctyl, linear and / or branched fatty acid esters with polyhydric alcohols (such as, for example, propylene glycol dimerdiol or trimertriol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C6 -C10-fatty acids, liquid mono mixtures - / di- / triglycerides based on C6-C18-fatty acids, esters of C6-C22-fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, specifically benzoic acid, esters of C2- C12- diacids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxy groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, carbonates of C6-C22- fatty alcohol li near and branched, such as, for example, Dicaprilila Carbonate (Cetiol® CC), Guerbet carbonates, based on fatty alcohols that have from 6 to 18, preferably from 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters of benzoic acid with C6-C22-linear and / or branched alcohols (for example, Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetric dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as , for example, tipprilyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicone, methicone silicone grades, etc.) and / or aliphatic hydrocarbons or naphthenic, such as, for example, squalene, squalene or dialkyl cyclohexanes. EMULSIFIERS
[00018] Other surfactants can also be added to the preparations as emulsifiers, which include, for example: • add products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide on C8-22 alcohols linear fatty acids, on C12-22 fatty acids and on alkyl phenols containing 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group; • C12-18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide over glycerol; • glycerol mono- and diesters mono- and sorbitan diesters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms and ethylene oxide addition products; • products for the addition of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide over castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil; • polyol esters, and specifically polyglycol esters such as, for example, polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimerate isostearate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes are also suitable;
[00019] • products of addition of 2 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide over castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil; • partial esters based on C6-22 linear or branched fatty acids, unsaturated or saturated, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxy stearic acid, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipenta erythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glycosides ( for example, methyl glycoside, butyl glycoside, lauryl glycoside) and polyglycosides (for example cellulose); • mono- di- and trialkyl phosphates and / or di- and / or alkyl PEG triphosphates and their salts; • wool wax alcohols; • polysiloxane / polyalkyl polyether copolymers and the corresponding derivatives; • mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and / or mixed esters of C6-22 fatty acids, methyl cellulose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol, • polyalkylene glycols and • glycerol carbonate.
[00020] Addition products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, mono alkyl phenols and glycerol diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or with castor oil are known commercially available products. They are homologous mixtures in which the average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the proportion between the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and a substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C12-18 fatty acid monoesters and ethylene oxide diester addition products with glycerol are known to improve the lipid layer in relation to cosmetic formulations. Emulsifiers are preferably described in more detail as follows.
[00021] Partial glycerides. Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are mono glyceride of stearic hydroxy acid, diglyceride of stearic acid, monoglyceride of isostearic acid, diglyceride of isosearic acid, monoglyceride of oleic acid, diglyceride of oleic acid, monoglyceride of ricinole acid , ricinoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride, linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid di-glyceride, erucic acid, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, digliceric acid tartaric acid, citric acid monoglyceride, citric acid diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and technical mixtures thereof which may also contain small amounts of triglycerides from the production process. Addition products from 1 to 30 and preferably from 5 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide with the mentioned partial glycerides are also suitable.
[00022] Sorbitan esters: Suitable sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisoesterate, sorbitan sesqui-isoesterate, sorbitan di-isoesterate, sorbitan tri-isoesterate, sorbitan mono-oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monic ricinoleate, sorbitan sesquirricinoleate, sorbitan dirricinoleate, sorbitan hydrolyzate, sorbitan hydrocarbonate, sorbitan hydrocarbonate sorbitan, sorbitan dihydroxy stearate, sorbitan trihydroxy stearate, sorbitan monotartarate, sorbitan sesquitarta rat, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monate citrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan tritrate, sorbitan tritrate of sorbitan, sorbitan mono maleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and mis-turast techniques of the same. Addition products of 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide with the mentioned sorbitan esters are also suitable.
[00023] Polyglycerol esters: Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are Polyglyceryl-2 Dipoli-hydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), Poliglycerin-3-Di-isostearate (Lameform® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isoestearate (Isolan® 34 ), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglycose Diestearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Belina®), Polyglyceril-4 Caprato (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Diestearate (Creophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyrricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403), Po-ligliceril Dimerate Isoestearate and mixtures thereof. Examples of other suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di- and tri-esters of trimethyl propane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, cocograxic acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like, optionally reacted with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide.
[00024] Anionic emulsifiers: Typical anionic emulsifiers are C12-22 aliphatic fatty acids, such as palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid for example, and C12-22 carboxylic acids, such as zealic acid or sebacic acid, for example.
[00025] Amphoteric emulsifiers: Other suitable emulsifiers are amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group or at least one carboxylate and a sulfonate group in the molecule. Specifically suitable zwitterionic surfactants are called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethyl ammonium glycateates, for example, cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, to N-acylamino propyl-N glycinates, N-dimethyl ammonium, for example, acylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium coconut glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxy ethyl imidazolines containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and coconut glycinates acylamino ethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl. The fatty acid amide derivatives known under the name CFTA of coconut starch propyl betaine is the one of specific preference. Ampholytic surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers. Ampholytic surfactants are surface active compounds, which, in addition to a group of C8-18 alkyl or acyl, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH- or -SO3H- group in the molecule and which are capable of forming of internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionic acids, N-alkylamino butyric acids, N-alkylamino propionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamino propyl glycines, taurines of N-alkyl, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylamino propionic acids and alkylamino acetic acids that contain around 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Amphoteric surfactants of specific preference are N-cocoalkylamino propionate, co-aminoacylamino methyl propionate and C10-18 sarcosine. "SUPERFAT" AGENTS AND CONSISTENCY FACTORS.
[00026] "Super-fatty" agents can be selected from such substances, such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and also derivatives of polyethoxy or acylated lanolin and lecithin, fatty acid polyol esters, mono glycerides and alkanolamines of fatty acid, the fatty acid alkanolamines also serve as foaming stabilizers.
[00027] The consistency factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 8 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. A combination of such substances with alkyl oligoglycosides and / or N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and / or poly glycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is the one used preferably. THICKENING AGENTS AND REOLOGY ADDITIVES.
[00028] Suitable thickeners are polymeric thickeners such as those of the type of Aerosil® (hydrophilic silicas) polysaccharides, more especially xanthan gums, guar gum, agar-agar, algae and tilosis, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose and also polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters, of relatively high molecular weight of fatty acids, polyacrylates (for example, Carbopols® [Goodroch] or Synthalens® [Sigma}, polyarylamides, polyvinyl alcohol, and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, such surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, fatty acid esters with polyols, for example penta erythritol or trimethylol propane, ethoxylates and narrow-range fatty alcohol electrolytes, such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride. POLYMERS
[00029] Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives such as, for example, quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose which can be obtained from Amerchol under the trade name Polymer JR® 400, cationic starch, copolymers of dialkyl ammonium salts and acrylamides, vinyl pyrrolidone polymers / vinyl imidazole, such as, for example, Luviquat ® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example , Hydrolyzed Hydroxypropyl Laurildiamonium Collagen (Lamequat® L, Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethylene imine, cationic silicon polymers such as, for example, amodimethicone, adipic acid and dimethylamine hydroxypropyl diethylene triamine copolymers. (Cartaretine®, Sandoz), acrylic acid copolymers with dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride (Merquat®, Chemviron) polyamine polyamides and water soluble crosslinked polymers the same, cationic derivatives of chitin such as, for example, quaternized chitosan, optionally in microcrystalline distribution, condensation products of dihaloalkyls, for example, dibromo butane, with bis-dialkyl amines, for example, bis-dimethylamino-1 , 3-propane, cationic guar gums, such as, for example, Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar®C-17, Jaguar®C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as, for example, Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 by Miranol, and the various types of polycarbonate (for example, 6, 7, 32 or 37) that can be found on the market under the trade names of Rheocare® CC or Ultragen ® 300.
[00030] Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and non-ionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / acrylate copolymers isobornyl, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, non-cross-linked and poly-reticulated polyacrylic acids, propyl / acrylate acrylamide trimethyl ammonium chloride copolymers, octyl acrylate methacrylate co-polymers / tert-butyl aminoethyl / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate, polyvinyl pyrrolidone copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate, vinyl pyrrolidine / dimethyl aminoethyl vinyl methacrylate, caprolactam vinyl and optionally ethers and cellulose derivatized silicones. PEARL WAXES.
[00031] Suitable pearling waxes are, for example, alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol diesterate, fatty acid alkylamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamine, partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglycerides; esters of polybasic carboxylic acids optionally substituted with hydroxy with fatty alcohols containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long chain esters of tartaric acid, fatty compounds such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes , fatty carbonates, which contain at least 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearyl ether; fatty acids, such as stearic acid, stearic hydroxy acid or behenic acid, olefin epoxide ring opening products containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols, containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols containing 2 to 16 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof. SILICONES
[00032] Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethyl polysiloxanes, methyl phenyl polysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino silicone compounds, fatty acid, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluoro-, glycoside- , and / or alkyl modified silicones, which can be both liquid and resin type at room temperature. Other suitable silicone compounds are simethicone, which are mixtures of dimethicone with an average chain length of 200 to 300 units of dimethyl siloxane, and hydrogenated silicates. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can be found in Todd et al. in Cosm. Toil. 91, 27 (1976). WAXES AND STABILIZERS
[00033] In addition to the natural oils used, waxes can also be present in the preparations, more especially natural waxes such as, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, wax of guaruma, rice oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricuri wax, montana wax, bees wax, varnish wax, spermaceti wax, lanolin (wool wax), uropigial fat, ceresine, ozocerita (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, and microceras; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes) such as, for example, montana ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes.
[00034] Metal salts of fatty acids, such as, for example, magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearates or ricinoleates can be used as stabilizers. PRIMARY FACTORS OF PROTECTION AGAINST THE SUN.
[00035] The primary factors of protection against the sun in the context of the invention are, for example, organic substances (light filters) that are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and that are capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation and releasing absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example, ample heat.
[00036] The formulations according to the invention advantageously contain at least one UV-A filter and / or at least one UV-B filter and / or a wider filter range and / or at least one inorganic pigment. The formulations according to the invention preferably contain at least one UV-B filter or a wider range filter, preferably more specific at least one UV-A filter and at least one UV-B filter.
[00037] Preferably cosmetic compositions, preferably topical formulations according to the present invention comprise one, two, three or more sun protection factors selected from the group consisting of 4-amino benzoic acid and derivatives, derivatives of salicylic acid, derivatives of benzophenone, derivatives of dibenzoyl methane, diphenyl acrylate, 3-imidazol-4-yl acrylic acid and esters thereof, derivatives of benzofuran, derivatives of benzylidene malonate, polymeric UV absorbers containing one or more organosilica radicals, derivatives of cinnamic acid, derivatives of camphor, derivatives of triamilino-3-triazine, derivatives of 2-hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole, derivatives of phenyl bendimidazole sulfonic acid and the salts thereof, methyl ethers of acid anthranilic, benzotriazole derivatives and indole derivatives.
[00038] In addition, it is advantageous to combine compounds of formula (I) with active ingredients that penetrate into the skin and that protect skin cells from the inside against damage induced by sunlight and that reduce the level of matrix of metallo proteases on the skin. The respective ingredients preferably, the so-called aryl hydrocarbon receptor antagonists are described in WO 2007/128723, which is incorporated herein, in this patent application, by reference. It is preferably 2-benzylidene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one.
[00039] The UV filters mentioned above that can be used within the context of the present invention are those of preference, but of course they are not limiting.
[00040] The UV filters that are used preferably are selected from the group consisting of • p-amino benzoic acid • ethyl ester of the p-amino benzoic acid (25 moles) ethoxylated (INCI name): PEG-25 PABA) • p-dimethylamino benzoic acid ester-2-ethylhexyl • benzoic p-amino acid ethyl ester (2 moles) N-propoxylated • benzoic p-amino acid glyceryl ester • homomethyl ester (homosalates) (Neo Helio - pan®HMS) • -2-ethylhexyl ester of salicylic acid (Neo Heliopan®OS) • triethanolamine salicylate • 4-isopropyl benzyl salicylate • anthranilic acid menthyl ester (Neo Heliopan®MA) • ethyl ester of diisopropyl cinnamic acid • 2-ethylhexyl ester of p-methoxycinnamic acid (Neo Heliopan®AV) • diisopropyl cinnamic acid methyl ester • isoamyl ester of p-methoxycinnamic acid (Neo Heliopan®E 1000) • diethanolamine salt of p-methoxycinnamic acid • isopropyl ester of p-methoxycinnamic acid • 2-phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and salts (Neo Heliopan®Hydro) • 3- (4'-trimethylammonium) benzylidene bornan-2-one methyl sulfate • beta-imidazole-4 (5) -acrylic acid (urocanic acid) • 3- (4'-sulfo) benzylidene bornan-2-one and salts • 3- (4'-methyl benzylidene) -D, L-camphor (Neo Heliopan®MBC) • 3-benzylidene-D, L-camphor • N - [olymer (2 and 4) - [2- (oxoborn-3-ylidene) methyl] benzyl] acrylamide • 4 '- [(6- [4- (1,1-dimethyl) aminocarbonyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine -2,4-diyl) diimino] -bis- (benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester) (Uva-sorb®HEB) • benzylidene polysiloxane malonate (Parsol®SLX) • glyceryl ethyl hexanoate dimethoxy cinnamate • salicylate dipropylene glycol • tris (2-ethylhexyl) -4,4 ', 4' '- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tribenzoate (= 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-hexyl-1'-oxy) - 1,3,5-triazine) Uvinul®T150).
[00041] Broadband filters which are preferably combined with one or more compounds of formula (I) in a preparation according to the present invention are selected from the group consisting of: • 2-ethylhexyl acrylate -2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl (Neo Heliopan®303) • ethyl-2-cyano-3,3'-diphenyl acrylate • 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (Neo Heliopan®BB) • acid 2 -hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic • dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone • 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone • tetrahydroxy benzophenone • 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone • 2- hydroxy-4-n-octoxybenzophenone • 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methyl benzophenone • hydroxymethoxy sodium sulfonate benzophenone • disodium -2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxy-5,5 '-disulfo benzophenone • phenol 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- (2-methyl-3 (1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- (trimethylsilyl) oxy) disiloxianyl) propyl) (Mexoril®XL) • 2,2'-methylene bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-1,1,3,3- tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (Tinosorb®M) • 2,4-bis- [4- (2-ethylhexyl) xi) -2-hydroxyphenyl] -1,3,5-triazine • 2,4-bis - [{(4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy} phenyl] -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) - 1,3,5-triazine (Tinosorb®S) • 2,4-bis - [{(4- (3-sulfonate) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy} phenyl] -6- (4 -methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine • 2,4-bis - [{(3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy} phenyl] -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1 , 3,5-triazine • 2,4-bis - [{4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy} phenyl] -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarbonyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5 -triazine • 2,4-bis - [{4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy} phenyl] -6- [4- (2-ethylcarboxy) phenylamino] -1,3 , 5-triazine • 2,4-bis - [{4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy} phenyl] -6- (1-methylpyrrol-2-yl) -1,3,5-triazine • 2,4-bis - [{4-tris- (trimethylsiloxysilylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy} phenyl] -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine • 2,4-bis - [{4- ( 2 '' - methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy} phenyl] -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine • 2,4-bis - [{4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3 ', 5', 5 ', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2' '- methylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy} phenyl] -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine.
[00042] The compositions can comprise other typical detergents and cleaning composition ingredients such as UV-A filters, filters that are preferably combined with one or more compounds of formula (I) in a preparation according to the present invention and which are selected from the group consisting of • 4-isopropyl dibenzoyl methane • terephthalylidene dibornane sulfonic acid and salts (Mexoril®SX) • 4-t-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (avobenzone) / (Neo Heliopan® 357) • disodium salt of phenylene bis-benzimidazyl tetra sulfonic acid (Neo Heliopan®AP) • monosodium salt of 2,2 '- (1,4-phenylene) -bis- (1H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid ), • 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (Uvinul® A Plus) • indanilidene compounds according to DE 100 55 940 A1 (= WO 2002 038537 A1)
[00043] The compositions may comprise other typical detergents and cleaning composition ingredients such as UV filters, which are preferably combined with one or more compounds of formula (I) in a preparation according to the present invention and which are selected from the group consisting of
[00044] • benzoic p-amino acid
[00045] • 3- (4'-trimethylammonium) benzylidene boron-2-one methyl sulphate • salicylic acid homomentyl ester (Neo Heliopan®HMS) • 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone (Neo Heliopan ®BB) • 2-phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Neo Heliopan®Hydro) • terephthalylidene dibornane sulfonic acid and salts (Mexoril®SX) • 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Neo Helio-pan®357 ) • 3- (4'-sulfo) benzylidene bornan-2-one and salts • 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (Neo Heliopan®303) • N- [olymer (2 and 4) - [2- (oxoborn-3-ylidene) methyl] benzyl] acrylamide • p-methoxy cinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan®AV) • p- ethyl ester benzoic amino acid (25 moles) ethoxylated (INCI name: PEG-25 PABA) • p-methoxy cinnamic acid isoamyl ester (Neo Heliopan®E1000) • 2,4,6-triamilino- (p-carbo- 2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1,3,5-triazine (Uvinul®T150) • phenol 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- (2-methyl- 3 (1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- (trimethylsilyl) oxy) disiloxyanil) propyl) (M exoril®XL) • 4,4 '- [(6- [4- (1,1-dimethyl) aminocarbonyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl) diimino] -bis- (acid benzoyl-2-ethylhexyl ester) (Uvasorb HEB) • 3- (4'-methyl benzylidene) -D, L-camphor (Neo Helio-pan®MBC) • 3-benzylidene camphor • 2-ethylhexyl ester salicylic acid (Neo Heliopan®OS) • 4-dimethylamino ester benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl (Padimato O) • hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and the Na salt • 2,2 ' -methylene bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-1,1,3,3- tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (Tinosorb®M) • disodium salt of phenylene bis-benzimidazyl tetra sulfonic acid (Neo Heliopan ®AP) • 2,4-bis - [{(4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy} phenyl] -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (Tinosorb®S) • benzylidene malonate polysiloxane (Parsol®SLX) menthyl anthranilate (Neo Heliopan®MA) • hexyl ester 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid (Uvinul®A Plus) • indanilidene compounds according to DE 100 55 940 (= WO 02/38537).
[00046] The primary and also advantageous secondary sun protection factors are mentioned in WO 2005 123101 A1. Advantageously, these preparations contain at least one UVA filter and / or at least one UVB filter and / or at least one inorganic pigment. The preparations can be present here, in this context, in various forms as they are used in a conventional manner for preparations for protection against the sun. Thus, they can be in the form of a solution, a water-in-oil (W / O) type or oil-in-water (O / W) type emulsion or a multiple emulsion, for example, from type of water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W), a gel, a hydrodispersion, a solid stick or even in an aerosol.
[00047] In another preferred embodiment, a formulation according to the invention contains a total amount of sun protection agents, that is, specifically UV filters and / or inorganic pigments (UIV filter pigments) of such a nature. so that the formulation according to the invention has a protection factor against light of more than or equal to 2 (preferably greater than or equal to 5). Such formulations according to the present invention are specifically suitable for the protection of skin and hair. SECONDARY FACTORS AGAINST THE SUN
[00048] In addition to the groups of primary sun protection factors mentioned above, secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type can also be used. The secondary antioxidant-type sun protection factors interrupt the photochemical reaction chain that is initiated when UV rays penetrate the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (eg, glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (eg, urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine , L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (for example, anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (for example, alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, liponic acid and derivatives thereof (for example, dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglycoses, propylthio uracil and other thiols (for example, thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine, and glycosyl, N-acetyl, esters of methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, alpha-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl and esters thereof) and salts thereof, dipropylate dilaurylthio, dipropionate distearylthio, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleoside if salts) and sulfoximine compounds (eg butionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butionin sulfones, penta-, hexa- and hepta-thionine sulphoxine) in very small compatible dosages, also (metal) chelators (for example alpha-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, acid-phytic, lactoferrin), alpha-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (eg linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives thereof (eg palmitate ascorbyl phosphorus, asbestil Mg phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and benzoin resin coniferyl benzoate, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof , glyco siluctin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butyl hydroxytoluene, butyl hydroxyanisole, nord-hydroguaiaca acid, nord-hydroguaiaretic acid, tri-hydroxybutyrophenone, acidic and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, supe - oxide dismutase, titanium dioxide (for example dispersions in ethanol), zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO, ZnSO4), selenium and derivatives thereof (for example selenium methionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and derivatives of these active substances suitable for the purposes of the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids).
[00049] Advantageous inorganic secondary protection pigments are the metal oxides and finely dispersed metal salts which are mentioned in WO 2005 123101 A1. The total amount of inorganic pigments, specifically hydrophobic inorganic micropigments in the finished cosmetic preparation according to the present invention is advantageously from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight , in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.
[00050] Particular UV filters or inorganic pigments, which can optionally be made hydrophobic, can also be used, such as titanium (TiO2), zinc (ZnO), iron (Fe2O3), zirconium oxides (ZrO2), silica (SiO2), manganese (such as MnO), aluminum (Al2O3), cerium (for example, Ce2O3) and / or mixtures thereof. ACTIVE INGREDIENTS FOR SKIN AND / OR HAIR PIGMENTATION MODULATION.
[00051] The active ingredients preferably for whitening the skin and / or hair are selected from the group consisting of kogic acid (5-hydroxy-2-hydroxymethyl-4-pyranone), preferably derived from kogic acid kipal acid dipalmitate, arbutin, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives, preferably ascorbyl magnesium phosphate, hydroquinone, hydroquinone derivatives, resorcinol, resorcinol derivatives, preferably 4-alkylresorcinols and 4- (1-phenylethyl) 1, 3-dihydroxybenzene (phenylethyl resorcinol), cyclohexyl carbamates (preferably one or more of the cyclohexyl carbamates described in WO 2010/122178 and WO 2010/097480), molecules containing sulfur, preferably glutathione or cysteine , alpha-hydroxy acids (preferably citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), salts and esters thereof, N-acetyl tyrosine and derivatives, undecenoyl phenylalanine, gluconic acid, chromone derivatives, preferably aloesine, flavonoids, acid 1- phosphineic aminoethyl, thiourea derivatives, ellagic acid, nicotinamide (niacinamide), zinc salts, preferably zinc chloride or zinc gluconate, thujaplicin and derivatives, triperpenes, preferably masolinic acid, sterols, preferably ergosterol, benzofuranones, preferably senquiunolide, vinyl guaiacol, ethyl guaiacol, dionic acids, preferably dionic octodecene acid and / or azelaic acid, inhibitors of nitrogen oxide synthesis, preferably L-nitroarginine and derivatives thereof, 2,7-dinitroindazole or thiocitrulin, metal chelators (preferably alpha hydroxy fatty acids, phytic acid, humic acid, bile acid, bile extract, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof), retinoids, soy milk and extract, serine protease inhibitors or lipoic acid or other synthetic or natural active ingredients for skin and hair lightening, the latter preferably used in the form of an extract from plants, preferably extract of bearberry, rice extract, papaya extract, turmeric extract, blackberry extract, benkkoang extract, nutsedge extract, licorice root extract, or concentrated or isolated constituents thereof, preferably glabridine or lyochalcone A, extract of artocarpus, extract of rumex and of the species ramulus, extract of species of pine (pinus), extract of the species vitis or stylbene derivatives isolated or concentrated from them, extract of saxifraga, extract of scutellaria, extract of grape and / or extract of microalgae, specifically Tetraselmis suecica extract.
[00052] Skin whiteners preferably as component (b) are konic acid and phenylethyl resorcinol, such as tyrosine, beta- and alpha-arbutin inhibitors, hydroquinone, nicotinamide, dioic acid, ascorbyl magnesium phosphate and vitamin C and its derivatives, blackberry extract, Bengkoang extract, papaya extract, tumor extract, nutmeg extract, licorice root extract (containing glycyrrhizin) alpha hydroxy acids, 4-alkyl resorcinols, 4-hydroxy - nisol. Such skin lighteners are the preferred ones due to their very good activity, specifically in combination with sclareolide according to the present invention. In addition, said skin lighteners are preferably readily available.
[00053] Advantageous active ingredients for skin and hair tanning in this context are the substrates or substrate analogs of tyrosine, such as L-tyrosine, N-acetyl tyrosine, L-DOPA, or L-dihydroxy phenylalanine , xanthine alkaloids such as caffeine, theobromine and theophylline and derivatives thereof, peptides such as propiomelane curtain such as ACTH, alpha MSH, peptide analogs of the same and other substances that bind to the melacortin receptor, peptides such as Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, Lys-le-Gly-Arg-Lys or Leu-gly-Lys, purines, pyrimidines, folic acid, copper salts such as copper gluconate, chloride or pyrrolidonate, 1,3,4-oxadiazole-2-thiols, such as 5-pyrazin-2-yl-1,3,4-oxadiazole-2-thiol, zinc diglycinate curcumin (Zn (GLY) 2 ), manganese (II) bicarbonate complexes ("pseudocatalases") as described for example in EP 0 584 178, substituted cyclohexene tetra derivatives as described for example in WO 2005/032501, isoprenes as described in WO 2005/102252 and WO 2006/010661, melanin derivatives such as Melasyn-100 and MalanZe, diacyl glycerols, aliphatic or cyclic diols, psoralens, prostaglandins and the like, adenylase cyclase activators and compounds that activate the transfer of melanosome parakeratinocytes such as serine proteases or agonists of the PAR-2 receptor, plant extracts and parts of plants of the species chrysanthemum, species san-guisorba, nut extracts, annatto extracts, rhubarb extracts, microalgae extracts, specifically from Isochrysis galbana, trehalose, erythrulose and dihydroxy acetone. Flavonoids that dye or tan the skin and hair (such as quercetin, ramnetin, caempferol, fisetin, ge- ninein, daidzein, chrysin and api-genin, epicatechin, diosmin and diosmetin, morine, quercitrin, naringenin, hesperidin, floridizine and floretine) can also be used.
[00054] The amount of the above-mentioned examples of additional active ingredients for the modulation of skin and hair pigmentation (one or more compounds) in the products according to the invention is then preferably from 0.00001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. ANTI-AGING ASSETS
[00055] In the context of the invention, anti-aging or biogenic agents are, for example, antioxidants, matrix metal proteinase (MMP) inhibitors, skin moistening agents, glycosaminoglycan stimulators, anti-inflammatory agents, TRPV1 antagonists and extracts of plants.
[00056] Antioxidants: Suitable antioxidants include amino acids (preferably glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (preferably urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, preferably D, L-carnosine , D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (preferably amine), carnitine, creatine, matriquine peptides (preferably lysyl-threonyl-threonyl-lysyl-serine) and penta palmitoylated peptides, carotenoids, carotenes (preferably alpha-carotene, beta-carotene and lycopene) and derivatives thereof, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (preferably dihydrolipoic acid) autothioglycosis, propyl thiouracil and other thiols (preferably thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palm-toil, oleyl, gamma-linoleyl, cholesteryl, glyceryl and oligoglyceryl esters thereof) and salts thereof, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl tiodi - propionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (preferably esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulphoximine compounds (preferably butionin sulphoxines, homocysteine sulphoximine, butionin sulphones, penta-, hexa -, heptathionin sulfoximine) in very small tolerated doses (such as Pmol up to μmol / kg), chelators (metal) (preferably alpha-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid phytic acid, lactoferrin), alpha-hydroxy acids (from preferably citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (from preferably linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives thereof (preferably ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl Mg phosphate, asorbic acetate), ed tocopherols derivatives (preferably vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and benzoin resin conferile benzoate, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, flavonoids and glycosylated precursors thereof, specifically quercetin and derivatives of preferably alpha-glucosyl rutin, rosmarinic acid, carnosol, carnosolic acid, resveratrol, caffeic acid and derivatives thereof, synaptic acid and derivatives thereof, ferrulic acid and derivatives thereof, curcuminoids, chlorogenic acid and derivatives of them, retinoids, preferably retinyl palmitate, retinol or tretinoin, ursolic acid, levulinic acid, butyl hydroxytoluene, butyl hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiaco acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxy butyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof , mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof (preferably ZnO, ZnSO4), selenium and derivatives thereof (preferably selenium methionine), dismute superoxide if, stilbenes and derivatives thereof (preferably stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of those active ingredients mentioned that that are suitable according to the invention or extract of or fractions of plants which have an antioxidant effect, preferably green tea, rooibos, honeybush, grape, rosemary, sage, honeydew, thyme, lavender, olive, oats, cocoa , ginkgo, ginseng, licorice, honeysuckle, Sephora, pueraria, pine, citrus, Philanthus emblica or St. John's wort seeds, grape seeds, wheat germ, Philanthus emblica, coenzymes, preferably coenzyme Q10, plasto- quinone and menaquinone. Antioxidants are preferably selected from the group consisting of vitamin A and derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives, tocopherol and derivatives, preferably tocopherol acetate and ubiquinone.
[00057] If vitamin E and / or derivatives thereof are used as the antioxidant (s) it is advantageous to choose their concentrations from a range from about 0.001 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation. If vitamin A or derivatives of vitamin A or carotenes or derivatives thereof are used as the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their concentrations from the range from about 0.001 to about 10% by weight based on the total weight of the formulation.
[00058] Matrix Metall Proteinase Inhibitors (MMPI)
[00059] Preferably the compositions comprise matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors, especially those that inhibit the matrix proteinase metal enzymatically by cleaving the collagen, selected from the group consisting of: ursolic acid, retinyl palmitate, gallate propyl, precocene, 6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-1 (2H) -3,4-dihydro-6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-1 (2H) - benzopyran, benzamidine hydrochloride, N-ethylmalemide cysteine proteinase inhibitors and epsilon-amino-n-caproic acid from serine protease inhibitors: sufonil phenylmethyl fluoride, colhibins (Pentapharm company; INCI: hydrolyzed rice protein), oenotrosol ( company Soliance; INCI: propylene glycol, water, extract of the root of Oenoutrosa bienis, ellagic acid, and elagitanins, for example from pomegranate), phosphoramidone hinokitiol, EDTA, galardin, EquiStat (company Collaborative Group; apple fruit extract, soybean seed extract, ursolic acid, isoflav soy beans and soy proteins), sage extract, MDI (Atrium company; INCI: glycosamino glycans), fermiskin (company Silab / Mawi; INCI: water extract of lentinus edodes), actimp 1.9.3 (company Expanscience / Rahn; INCI: hydrolyzed lupine protein), lipobele sojaglicone (company Mibele; INCI : alcohol, polysorbate 80, lecithin and soy isoflavones), extracts from green tea and black tea and other plant extracts that are listed in WO 02 069992 A1 (see the same tables 1-12 incorporated here, in this application patent by reference), proteins or glycoproteins from soy, hydrolysed proteins from rice, peas or lupine, plant extracts that inhibit MMPs, preferably extract from shitake mushrooms, extract from the leaves of the Rosaceae family , subfamily Rosoideae, very specifically blackberry leaf extract (preferably as described in WO 2005 123101 A1, incorporated herein, in this patent application by reference) such as, for example ,. SymMatrix (Symrise company, INCI: Maltodextrin, Rubus Fruticoosus (Blackberry) Leaf Extract). Preferred assets are selected from the group consisting of retinyl palmitate, ursolic acid, extract from leaves of the Rosaceae family, subfamily Rosoideae, genistein and daidzein. Skin Humidifying Agents.
[00060] The skin moistening agents are preferably selected from the group consisting of alkanediols or alkanitriols comprising from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably C3-C10 alkanediols and C3-C10 alkanriotols. More preferably, skin moistening agents are selected from the group consisting of, glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol and 1,2-decanediol.
[00061] Glycosaminoglycan Stimulators: The preferred compositions comprise substances stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid and derivatives or salts, Subliskin (Sederma, INCI: Synehizobium Meliloti Ferment Filtrato, Cetil Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lecithin ), Hyalufix (BASF, INCI: Water, Butylene Glycol, Alpinia galanga leaf extract, xanthan gum, Caprylic / Capric triglyceride), Stimulhyal (Soliance, INCI: calcium ketoglyconate), Syn-Glican (DSM, INCI: Tetradecyl trifluoroacetate Amino butyryl butyric urea, glycerin, magnesium chloride), Kalpariano (Biotech Marina), DC Upregulex (Distinguishing ingredients, INCI: Water, Butylene Glycol, Phospholipids, Hydrolyzed Sericin), glucosamine, N-acetyl retinoids, preferably retinol and vitamin A, Arctium lappa fruit extract, Eriobotrya japonica extract, Genkwanina, N-Methyl-L-serine, (-) - alpha-bisabolol or alpha- synthetic bisabolol such as Draugosantol and Dragosantol 100 from Symrise, oat glycan, Echinacea purpurea extract and soy protein hydrolyzate Preferred assets are selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid and derivatives or salts, retinol and derivatives, (-) - alpha-bisabolol or synthetic alpha-bisabolol such as, for example, Dragosantol and Dragosantol 100 from Symrise, oat glycan, pure Echinacea extract, Sinorhizobium Meliloti Ferment Filtrato, calcium ketoglyconate , Alpinia galanga leaf extract and tetradecyl amino butyryl valylamino butyric trifluoroacetate.
[00062] Anti-inflammatory agents: The compositions may also contain anti-inflammatory ingredients and / or ingredients for the improvement of redness and / or skin irritation (itching), specifically steroidal substances, of the type of corticosteroids selected from the group consisting of in hydrocortisone, dexamethasone, dexamethasone phosphate, methyl prednisolone or cortisone, they are advantageously used as anti-inflammatory active ingredients for the relief of redness and skin irritation, the relationship of which can be extended through the addition of anti-inflammatory non-steroids. Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs can also be used. Examples that can be cited here are oxicams such as piroxicam or tenoxicam; salicylates such as aspirin, disalcid, solprin or fendosal; acetic acid derivatives such as diclofenac, fenclofenac, indomethacin, sulidac, tolmetin or clidanac; fenomenates such as mefenamic, meclofenamic, flufenamic or niflumic, derivatives of propionic acid such as ibuprofen, naproxen, benoxa-profene or pyrazoles such as phenylbutazone, oxyphenylbutazone, femoral zone or azapropazone. Antralitic acid derivatives, especially the avenanthramides described in WO 2004 047833 A1, are the preferred ingredients in a composition according to the present invention.
[00063] Also useful are natural anti-inflammatory mixtures or those that occur naturally in substances or mixtures of substances that relieve redness and / or skin irritation, specifically extracts or fractions from chamomile, Aloe vera, Comminphora species, Rubia species, willow, willow herb, oats, marigold, arnica, St. John's wort, honeysuckle, rosemary, Pasififora incarnata, witch hazel, ginger or Echinacea, preferably selected from the group consisting of extracts or fractions from chamomile, Aloe vera, Comminphora species, Rubia species, willow, willow herb, oats, marigold, arnica, St. John's wort, honeysuckle, rosemary, Passiflora incarnata, hamamelis, ginger or Echinacea, and / or pure substances, preferably alpha-bisabolol, apigenin, apigenin-7-glucoside, gingerols, shogaols, gingerdiols, dehydroegingerdiones, paradols, natural or naturally occurring avenantramides, preferably tranilast, aven anthramide A, avenanthramide B, avenanthramide C, unnatural or naturally occurring avenanthramides, preferably dihydroeavenanthramide D, dihydroeavenanthramide E, avenanthramide D, avenanthramide E, avenanthramide F, bosellic acid, phytosterols, glycyrrhine, glabridine and glabridine - chalcone A; preferably selected from the group consisting of alpha-bisabolol, natural avenanthramides, unnatural avenanthramides, preferably dihydroeavenanthramide D (as described in WO 2004 047833 A1), boswellic acid, phytosterols, glycyrrhizin, and lycochalcona A, and / or allantoin, panthenol, lanolin, (pseudo-) ceramides [referably Ceramide 2, hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide MEA, cetyloxypropyl glyceryl methoxypropyl myristamide, N- (1-hexadecanoyl) -4-hydroxy-L-proline (1-hexadecyl ) ester, hydroxyethyl palmityl oxyhydroxypropyl palmitate], glycosphingolipids, phytosterols, chitosan, mannose, lactose and β-glucans, specifically oat 1,3-1,4-β-glucan.
[00064] When bisabolol is used in the context of the present invention, it can be of natural or synthetic origin, and is preferably "alpha bisabolol"). Preferably, the bisabolol used is (-) alpha bisabolol prepared in a synthetic or natural form and / or a mixed synthetic isomer of alpha bisabolol. If natural (-) alpha bisabolol is used it can be used as a constituent of an oil essential oil or a plant extract or a fraction thereof, for example as a constituent of (fractions of) oil or extracts of chamomile or Vanilosmopsis (specifically Vanilosmopsis erythropappa or Vanilosmopsis arborea). The synthetic alpha bisabolol can be obtained, for example, under the trade name "Dragosantol" from Symrise.
[00065] In case the ginger extract is used in the context of the present invention, the extracts preferably from the fresh or dried ginger root are used which are prepared from the extraction with methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, acetone, acetate of ethyl, carbon dioxide (CO2), hexane, methylene chloride, chloroform or other solvents or solvent mixtures of comparable polarity. Extracts are characterized by the presence of active amounts of reduced skin irritation from constituents such as gingerols, shoal, gingerdiols, dehydrogingerdiones and / or paradols.
[00066] TRPV1 antagonists: Suitable compounds that reduce the hypersensitivity of the skin nerves based on their actions as TRPV1 antagonists, include, for example, the, for example, trans-4-tert-butyl cyclohexanol as described in WO 2009 087242 A1, or indirect TRPV1 modulators through μ-receptor activation, for example, the acetyl tetrapeptide-15 are preferred.
[00067] Peeling agents: The compositions may also contain peeling agents (component b5) in amounts of about 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 14% by weight, from specific preference of about 1 to about 10% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation. The term ("peeling agent") is understood to mean any compound capable of acting • directly on the peeling by promoting exfoliation, such as beta hydroxide acids, specifically salicylic acid and its derivatives (including 5-octanoyl salicylic acid); α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; urea, gentisic acid, oligofuctoses; cinnamic acid, Shofora japonica extract, resveratrol and some derivatives of jasmonic acid; • or in relation to the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodermosomes, glucosidases, stratum corneum, chemotriptic enzyme (SCCE) or other protease (trypsin, of the chymotrypsin type). Inorganic salt chelating agents can be mentioned: EDTA; N-acyl-N, N ', N'-ethylenediamine triacetic acid, sulfonic amino compounds and specifically sulfonic acid (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane), (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procistin); derivatives of glycine-type alpha-amino acids (as described in EP 0 852 949, and the sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetylglycosamine; chestnut extracts such as those marketed by the company SILAB under the name Recoverine ®, fig extracts from India, such as those marketed under the name Exfolactive ® by the company SILAB, or Phytosphingosine SLC® (phytosphingosine grafted with a salicylic acid) marketed by the Degusa company.
[00068] The peeling agents suitable for the invention can be chosen specifically from the group consisting of sulfonic acids, calcium chelators, α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric or malic acids. mandelic; ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, such as ascorbyl glycoside, and ascorbyl magnesium phosphate; nicotinamide, urea, sulfonic acid (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane), (HEPES); beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and derivatives thereof, retinoids and esters thereof, retinal, retinoic acid and derivatives thereof, those described in FR 2570377 A1, EP 0199636 A1, EP 0325540 A1, EP 0402072 A1, chestnut or fig extracts, specifically marketed by SILAB, reducing compounds such as cysteine or cysteine precursors.
[00069] The peeling agents that can be used are also nicotinic acid and esters of it and nicotinamide, also called vitamin B3 or vitamin PP, and ascorbic acid and the precursors thereof, as described below. specific in patent application EP 1529522 A1.
[00070] Anti-cellulite agents: Cellulitic and lipolytic agents are preferably selected from the group consisting of those described in WO 2007/077541, and agonists of the beta-adrenergic receptor such as synephrine and its derivatives, and carbamates of cyclohexyl described in WO 2010/097479. Agents that increase or boost the activity of anti-cellulite agents, specifically agents that stimulate and / or depolarize the C fibers of the nerves, are preferably selected from the group consisting of capsaicin and derivatives thereof, vanylylnonilamide and derivatives thereof , L-carnitine-coenzyme A, isoflavonoids, soy extracts, pineapple extract and conjugated linoleic acid.
[00071] Fat-increasing agents: The formulations and products according to the present invention can also comprise one or more fat-increasing agents and / or adipogenic agents, as well as agents for increasing or enhancing the activity of the agents of fat increase. A fat-raising agent is, for example, hydroxy methoxy phenylpropyl methylmethoxy benzofuran (trade name Sym3D®) HAIR GROWTH ACTIVATORS OR INHIBITORS
[00072] The formulations and products according to the present invention can also comprise one or more hair growth activators, that is, agents to stimulate hair growth. Hair growth activators are preferably selected from the group consisting of pyrimidine derivatives such as 2,4-diaminopyrimidine-3-oxide (Aminaxyl), 2,4-diamino-6-piperidinopyrimidine-3-oxide ( Minoxidil) and derivatives thereof, 6-amino-1,2-dihydro-1-hydroxy-2-imino-4-piperidinopyrimidine and its derivatives, xanthine alkaloids such as caffeine, theobromine and theoteophylline and derivatives of these, quercetin and derivatives, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin) and derivatives, potassium channel openers, antiandrogenic agents, synthetic or natural 5-reductase inhibitors, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopheryl nicotinate, benzyl nicotinate and C1- C6 alkyl nicotinate, proteins such as, for example, the Lys-Pro-Val tripeptide, difenciprene, hormones, finasteride, dutasteride, flutamide, bicalutamide, pregnane derivatives, progesterone and their derivatives, cyproterone acetate, spironolactone and other diuretics, calcineurin t inhibitors al such as FK506 (Tacrolimus, Fujimicin) and derivatives thereof, Cyclosporins A and derivatives thereof, zinc salts and zinc salts, polyphenols, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, phytosterols such as, for example, beta-sitosterol, biotin, eugenol, ( ±) -beta-citronalol, panthenol, glycogen for example of mussels, extract of microorganisms, algae, plants and parts of plants of for example the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum), Orthosifon, Vitex, Cofea, Paulinia, Theobroma, Asiasarum, Cucurbita or Styphnolobium, Serenoa repens (sawn palm), Sofora flavescens, Pigeum africanum, Panicum miliaceum, Cimicifuga racemosa, Glicina max, Eugenia caryophilata, Cotinus coggygria, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, sinochisis, galisisisis, Camelia licorice, grape, apple, barley or hops and / or rice or wheat hydrolysates
[00073] Alternatively, the formulations and products according to the present invention can comprise one or more hair growth inhibitors (as described above), i.e. agents for reducing or preventing hair growth. Hair growth inhibitors are preferably selected from the group consisting of activin, activin derivatives or activin agonists, ornithine deca carboxylate inhibitors, such as alpha-difluoromethylornithine or pentacyclic triterpenes such as, for example, acid ursolic, betulin, betulinic acid, oleanolic acid and derivatives thereof, 5alpha-reductase inhibitors, androgen receptor antagonists, S-adenosylmethionine decarboxylase inhibitors, gamma-glutamyl transpeptidase inhibitors, transglutamine inhibitors, inhibitors serine derived from soybeans, microorganism extract, algae, different microalgae or plants and parts of plants from, for example, the Leguminosae, Solanaceae, Grainaina, Asclepiadaceae or Cucurbitaceae families, the genera Chondrus, Gloi- opeltis, Ceramium, Durvilea, Glycine max, Sanguisorba oficinalis, Calendula oficinalis, Hamamelis virginiana, Arnicoa montana, Salix alba, Hypericum perforatum or Wild Gymnema. COOLING AGENTS
[00074] The compositions may also contain one or more substances with a physiological cooling effect (cooling agents) which are preferably selected here from the following list: menthol and menthol derivatives (for example, example L-menthol , D-menthol, racemic menthol, isomentol, neoisomentol, neomenol) menthyl ethers (eg (I-menthoxy) -1,2-propanediol, (l-menthoxy) - 2-methyl-1,2-propanediol, l -mentyl-methylether), menthyl esters (for example menthylformate, menthylacetate, menthylisobutyrate, menthylactates, L-menthyl- L-lactate, L-menthyl-D-lactate, menthyl- (2-methoxy) acetate, menthyl- (2-methoxyethoxy) acetate, menthylpyroglutamate), menthyl carbonates (for example menthyl propylene glycol carbonate, menthyl ethylene glycol carbonate, menthol glycerol carbonate or mixtures thereof), menthol semi-esters with a dicarboxylic acid or derivatives thereof (for example mono- mentilsuccinate, mono-mentyl glutarate, mono-mentyl malonate, N-ester, N- (dimethyl) a O-menthyl succinic acid amide, O-mentyl succinic acid amide ester), amine carboxylic acid amides (in this case, preferably M-carboxylic acid N-ethylamide [WS3] or Nα- (mentanocarbonyl) glycinetyl ester [WS5], as described in US 4,150,052, M-carboxylic acid N-ethylamide N-ethylamide or M- carboxylic acid N- (4-cyanomethyl) amide as described in WO 2005 049553 A1, N- ( alkoxyalkyl) amides), methane carboxylic acid mentone and mentone derivatives (eg L-mentone glycerol ketal), derivatives of 2,3-dimethyl-2- (2-propyl)-butyric acid (eg -N- 2,3-dimethyl-2- (2-propyl)-butyric acid methylamide [WS23]), isopulegol or its esters (I - (-) - isopulegol, I - (-) - isopulegol acetate), derived from men - tetanus (eg p-menthane-3,8-diol), cubball or synthetic or natural mixtures containing cubball, pyrrolidone derivatives of cycloalkyldione derivatives (eg 3-methyl-2 (1-pyrrolidinyl) -2- cyclopentene-1-o na) or tetrahydroepyrimidine-2-one (for example iciline or related compounds, such as those described in WO 2004/026840), other carboxamides (for example N- (2- (pyridin-2-yl) ethyl) -3-p-menthane carboxamide or related compounds), (1R, 2S, 5R) -N- (4-Methoxyphenyl) -5-methyl-2- (1-isopropyl) cyclohexane-carboxamide [WS12], oxamates ( preferably those described in EP 2033688 A2). ANTIMICROBIAL AGENTS
[00075] Suitable antimicrobial agents are, for example, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, 4-hydroxy acetophenone, 4-methylbenzyl alcohol, troplone, hinokitiol, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N '- (3, 4-dichloro-phenyl) urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethyl-phenol 2,2'-methylenebis (6-bromo- 4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) phenol 2-benzyl-4-chloro-phenol 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) -1,2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thymus oil, eugenol, clove oil, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprate, glycerol monocaprilate, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprate (DMC), N-alkylamides of salicylic acid, such as, for example, n-octylsalicylamide or n-decylsalicylamide. Other antimicrobial agents are chitosan, totarol, arylalkyl alcohols, such as, for example, 4-methyl-4-phenyl-2-pentanol and its derivatives (DE 101 43 434, specifically 4-methyl-4-phenyl-2-pentanol) , muguet alcohol (2,2-dimethyl-3-phenylpropanol), other arylalkyl alcohols (for example, those described in DE 44 47 361, DE 103 30 697, US 4,110,430 or EP 1 157 687), acid 2 -butyloctanoic acid, 2-hexyldecanoic acid, p-anisic acid, perfume oils, oils of unique aroma chemicals with antimicrobial activity, polyglycerol esters, such as, for example, polyglyceryl 3-caprylates, or combinations of the substances mentioned, which are generally used, inter alia, against underarm odor, foot odor, acne or dandruff. ENZYME INHIBITORS
[00076] Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase inhibitors. These inhibitors are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and, specifically, triethyl citrate (Hydagen CAT). The substances inhibit the activity of enzyme, thereby reducing the formation of odor. Other substances that are suitable esterase inhibitors are sulfates or phosphates of this role, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acid and esters thereof, such as, for example, example, glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, diethyl gutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxy carboxylic acids and esters thereof such as, for example, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate and zinc glycite. ODOR ABSORBENTS AND ACTIVE ANTIPERSPIRATION AGENTS.
[00077] Suitable odor absorbers are substances that are capable of greatly absorbing and retaining odor-forming compounds. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components, thereby also reducing their diffusion rate. It is important that perfumes have to remain undamaged in this process. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They comprise, for example, as the main constituent, a complex of zinc salt, or ricinoleic acid or widely odor neutralizing fragrances which are known to those skilled in the art as "fixatives", such as, for example, extracts of labdanum or styrax or certain derivatives of abietic acid. Odor-masking agents are fragrances or perfume oils, which, in addition to their function as odor-masking agents, give deodorants a respective fragrance note. The perfume oils that can be mentioned are, for example, mixtures of natural or synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches, and resins and balms. Animal products, such as, for example, civet and castoreal, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the type of ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon. The fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styryl benzyl propionate and salicylate. Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, and aldehydes include, for example, linear alkanes having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronalal, citronalyloxy acetaldehyde cyclamem aldehyde, citronalal, lilial and bourgeonal hydroxy, ketones include, for example, ionones and methyl cedryl ketonates alcohols include annotol, citronalol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linaol, phenylethyl alcohol and terpinaol, and hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balms. However, preference is given to the use of mixtures of different fragrances, which together produce a pleasant fragrance note. Essential oils of relatively low volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, peppermint oil, cinnamon leaf, linden flower oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanium oil, galbanum oil, lab-damage oil, and lavein oil. Preference is given to the use of bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, liral, citronalol, phenylethyl alcohol, hexyl α-cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, strong boisambrene, ambroxan, indole, hedione , seelice, lemon oil, mearin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, cycloval, lavein oil, sclera sage oil, β-damask, bourbon geranium oil, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix coeur, iso-E-super, NP-fixed, evernil, gamma iraldein, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilat, irotil and floramat in isolation or in mixtures.
[00078] Suitable anti-perspiration and astringent active ingredients are primarily aluminum, zirconium and zinc salts. Such suitable anti-hydrotic active ingredients are, for example, aluminum chloride, aluminum hydrochloride, aluminum dihydrochloride, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof, such as, for example, 1,2-propylene glycol, hydroxyalantoinate. aluminum, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium hydrochloride, aluminum zirconium tetrahydrate, aluminum zirconium penta hydrochloride and complex compounds thereof, such as with amino acids, such as glycine FILM MAKERS AND ANTICASPA AGENTS
[00079] Standard film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, acrylic acid series polymers, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid and its salts, and similar compounds.
[00080] Suitable anti-dandruff agents are Pirocton Olamin (monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinone), Baypival® (Climbazola) , Ketoconazol® (4-acetyl-1- {4- [2- (2,4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1,3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxy-phenyl } -piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, colloidal sulfur, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, ricinol polyethoxylate, sulfur tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid , Na salt of mono ethanolamide sulfosuccinate, Lamepon® UD (protein / undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, aluminum pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione / magnesium dipyrithione sulphate.
[00081] Cosmetic carrier materials are preferably solid or liquid at 25 ° C and 1013 mbar (including highly viscous substances) such as glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1 , 3-propylene glycol 1,3-butylene glycol, ethanol, water and mixtures of the two or more of said carrier materials, liquid with water. Optionally, these preparations according to the invention can be produced using preservatives or solubilizers. Preferably other liquid carrier substances, which can be the components of a preparation according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of oils such as vegetable oil, neutral oil and mineral oil.
[00082] Preferably solid carrier materials, which can be a component of a preparation according to the invention are hydrocolloids, such as starches, degraded starches, chemically or physically modified starches, dextrins (in powder form) , maltodextrins (preferably with an equivalent dextrose value of 5 to 25, preferably from 10 to 20) lactose, silica dioxide, modified cellulose, gum arabic, gum gum, tragacanth, caraia, carrageenan, pullulan, curdlan, xanthan gum, gelanum gum, guar flour, caroba bean flour, alginates, agar, pectin and inulin and mixtures of two or more of these solids, specifically malto-dextrins (preferably with an equivalent dextrose value of 15 to 20), lactose, silica dioxide and / or glucose.
[00083] In addition, hydrotropes, for example, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can be used to improve flow behavior. Suitable polyols preferably contain from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Polyols can contain other functional groups, most especially amino groups, or they can be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are: • glycerol; • alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1000 Daltons; • technical mixtures of oligoglycerol with a degree of self-condemnation of 1.5 to 10, such as for example technical mixtures of diglycerol with a content of diglycerol of 40 to 50% by weight; • methylol compounds such as, specifically, trimethylol ethane, trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol; • lower alkyl glycosides, specifically those containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, for example methyl and butyl glycoside; • sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example sorbitol or mannitol, • sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example glucose or sucrose; • amino sugars, for example glucamine; • dialcoolamines, such as diethanolamine or 2-aminopropane-1,3-diol. CONSERVATIVES
[00084] Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxy ethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and other classes of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Kosmetikverordnung ("Cosmetic Directive"). FERFUME OILS AND FRAGRANCES
[00085] Suitable perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic perfumes. Natural perfumes include flower extracts (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruseus (anise, corieer, cumin, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (fly, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pine wood, seal wood, guaiac wood, cedar wood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanium, opoponax) . Raw materials from animals, for example, civet and beaver can also be used. Typical synthetic perfume compounds are products of the type of ether, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon. Examples of perfume compounds of the ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butyl cyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styryl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include, for example, linear alkalis containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronelloyl acetaldehyde, cyclamem aldehyde, hydroxycitronal, lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketones are ionones, α-isomethionone and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols are ano-tol, citronalol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpinaol. Hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balms. However, it is preferable to use mixtures of different perfume compounds which together produce a pleasant scent. Other suitable perfume oils are essential oils of relatively low volatility that are mostly used as aroma components. Examples are sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, hormonal oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime flower oil, juicer oil, vetiver oil, oil, olibanium, galbanum oil, labdanum oil, lavender oil. The following are preferably used both in isolation and in the form of mixtures: bergamot oil, dihydroemircenol, lilial, liral, citronalol, phenylethyl alcohol, hexylcinamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde , linalool, Boisambreno Forte, Ambroxan, Indole, Hedione, Seelice, Citrus Oil, Mearin Oil, Orange Oil, Allylamyl Glycolate, Cyclovertal, Lavendin Oil, Muscat Sage Oil, Apricot, Bourbon Geranium Oil, Sali - cyclohexyl cilate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolida NP, evernil, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilat, irotil and floramat. DYES
[00086] Suitable dyes are any of the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes as listed, for example, in the publication "Kosmetische Farbemittel" of the Farbstofkommission der Deutschen Forschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pages 81 to 106. The examples include cochinaal red A (CI 16255), patont blue V (CI 42051), indigotin (CI 73015), chlorophilin (CI 75810), yellow quinoline (CI 47005), titanium dioxide (CI 77891), indanthrene blue RS (CI 69800) and madder lake (CI 58000). Luminol can also be present as a luminescent dye. The advantageous colored pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (such as, for example, Fe2O3, Fe3O4, FeO (OH) and / or tin oxide. The advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin Blue, green chromium oxide, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. PREPARATIONS
[00087] Preferred compositions according to the present invention are selected from the group of products for the treatment, protection, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair or as a make-up product, preferably as a product that stays on the skin (meaning that the one or more compounds of the formula (I) remain on the skin and / or hair for a longer period of time, when compared to rinsing products, in such a way that the humidification-promoting action and / or their anti-aging and / or wound healing is more pronounced).
[00088] The formulations according to the present invention are preferably in the form of an emulsion, such as an A / O (water-in-oil), O / A (oil-in-water), A emulsion / O / W (water-in-oil-in-water, O / W / O (oil-in-water-in-oil, PIT emulsion, Pickering emulsion, emulsion with a low oil content, micro- or natural- noemulsions, a solution, such as in oil (fatty oils or fatty acid esters, specifically C2-C20 esters of C6C32 fatty acids) or silicone oil, dispersion, suspension, cream, lotion or milk, depending on the production method and the ingredients, a gel (including hydrogel, hydrodispersion gel, oleogel), spray (such as pump spray or propellant spray) or a foam or impregnating solution for cleaning wipes, a detergent, such as , soap, synthetic detergent, liquid washer, shower and bath preparations, bath products (capsule, oil, tablet, salt, bath salt, soap, etc.) effervescent preparation , a skin care product such as an emulsion (as described above), ointment, paste, gel (as described above), oil, balm, serum, powder (such as face powder, body powder), a mask, a pencil stick, rool-on, pump, aerosol (foaming, non-foaming, or post-foaming, deodorant and / or antiperspirant, mouth wash lotion, and mouth rinse , a foot care product (including keratolytic, deodorant), insect repellent, sunscreen, after-sun preparation, shaving product, after shave balm, pre and after shave lotion, a hair removal agent, a hair care product such as, for example, a shampoo (including a 2 in 1 shampoo), anti-dandruff shampoo, children's shampoo, dry scalp shampoo, concentrated shampoo), conditioner, tonic for hair, hair water, hair rinse, styling cream, ointment, permanent lotion for a laying, hair spray, styling aid (such as gel or wax), hair softening agent (hair detangling agent, relaxer), hair dye such as, for example, temporary hair dye, hair dye semi-permanent hair, hair conditioner, hair mousse, eye care products, makeup, makeup remover or baby product.
[00089] The formulations according to the invention are preferably specific in the form of an emulsion, specifically in the form of an A / O, O / A, A / O / A, O / A / O emulsion PIT emulsion Pickering, emulsion with a low oil content, micro- or nanoemulsions, a gel (including hydrogel, hydrodispersion gel, oleogel), a solution in oil (fatty oils or fatty acid esters, specifically C2-C20 esters of C6 -C32 fatty acids) or silicone oil (such as spray pump or propellant spray).
[00090] Auxiliary substances and additives can be included in amounts of 5 to 99% by weight, preferably from 10 to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation. The quantities of cosmetic or dermatological auxiliary agents and additives and perfume to be used in each case can be easily determined by the person skilled in the art through simple trial and error, depending on the nature of the specific product.
[00091] The preparations can also contain water in an amount of up to 99% by weight, preferably from 5 to 80% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation. PHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITIONS
[00092] The pharmaceutical compositions according to the present invention can include similar additives as already explained in relation to the application of cosmetics such as, for example oil bodies or emulsions and specifically coactive that support the beneficial properties of the new extracts of ginger. It should also be mentioned that several of the assets mentioned in the following can also be incorporated into cosmetic formulations, the so-called "cosmoceutics". For this reason, the boundary between cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions is in flux and it should be understood that the components cited in relation to one application are recommended for the other, mutatis-mutantis without repetition, literally. Anti-irritation agents.
[00093] An important group of coactive agents includes anti-irritation agents such as, for example, anti-inflammatory steroidal substances of the type of corticosteroids, such as, for example hydro-cortisone, hydrocortisone derivatives, such as hydrocortisone 17-butyrate, dexamethasone, dexamethasone phosphate methylprednisolone or cortisone; oxycam type non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, such as piroxicam or tenoxicam; salicylates, such as aspirin, Disalcid, Solprin or fendosal; acetic acid derivatives, such as diclofenic, fenclofenac, indomethacin, sulindac, tolmetin or clindanac; phemamates, such as derivatives of mefenamic, meclophenamic, flufenamic or niflumic acids; propionic acid derivatives, such as ibuprofen, naproxen or benoxaprofen, or pyrazoles, such as phenylbutazone, oxyphenylbutazone, febrazone or azapropazone. Alternatively, natural anti-inflammatory substances or substances for the relief of redness and or skin irritation can be used. Plant extracts, specific fractions of highly active plant extracts and highly pure substances isolated from plant extracts can be used as extracts, fractions and active substances of aloe vera, Commifora species, Rubia species, Rubus species, willow, rose-bay willow, oats, marigold, arnica, St. John's wort, honeysuckle, ginger, chamomile, rosemary, sage, melissa, Passiflora incarnata, Sofora japonica, hamamelis, Pueraria, Dianthus or Echinacea, as well as pure substances, such such as, inter alia, bisabolol, apigenin, apigenin-7-glucoside, rosmarinic acid, boswellic acid, phytosterols, glycyrrhizic acid, glabridine, lycochalcona A, [6] -paradol, and anthranilic acid amide, such as, specifically, avenanthramides or diantramides, are preferably specific. The total amount of anti-irritants in a formulation according to the invention is preferably in the range of from 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, specifically from 0.001 to 5 % by weight, based on the total weight of the product formulation, respectively.
[00094] Specifically useful coactive agents are selected from the group consisting of antimycotic and pain-relieving agents, and more specifically from the group consisting of erythromycin, dimethindene, betamethasone, ibuprofen, ketoprofen, diclofenac, me- tronidazole, acyclovir, imiquimod, terbinafine, docosanol, cyclopyroxolamine, and mixtures thereof .:
[00095] Erythromycin is a macrolide antibiotic that has an antimicrobial spectrum similar to or slightly wider than that of penicillin, and is almost always used for people who have an allergy to penicillin.

[00096] Recent studies have shown that it can be used as a mild antidepressant. With respect to respiratory tract infections, it has better coverage of atypical organisms, which include Mycoplasma elegionellosis. It was first marketed by Eli Lily and Company, and is now commonly known as EES (ethyl succinate of erythromycin, an ester, of a prodrug that is commonly administered. In structure this macrocyclic compound contains a 14-member lactone ring with ten asymmetric centers and two sugars (L-cladinose and D-desosamine), making it a very difficult production compound to be produced using synthetic methods.Erythromycin is produced from a strain of the actinomycete Saccharopolispora erythraea see US 2,653 .899 - Eli Lily).
[00097] Dimethindene, also known as Fenistil ((RS-dimethyl (2- (3- [yridin-2-yl) ethyl] -1H-inden-2-yl) ethyl) amine) is an antihistamine / anti cholinergic used orally and locally as an antipruritic.

[00098] Betamethasone (8S, 9R, 10S.11S, 13S, 14S, 16S, 17R) -9-fluoro- 11,17- (2-hydroxyacetyl) -10, 13,16-trimethyl-6,7,8, 9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17- dodecahydro-3H-cyclopenta (alpha) -phenantren-3-one) is a potent glycosteroid with anti-inflammatory and immunosuppressive properties.

[00099] Unlike other drugs with these effects, beta-metasone does not cause water retention. It is applied as a topical cream, ointment, foam, lotion or gel to treat an itch. Betamethasone sodium phosphate is sometimes prescribed as an intramuscular (I.M.) injection for itching from a variety of foods including allergic reactions to poison ivy and similar plants (see U.S. 3,053,865 - Merck).
[000100] Ibuprofen (RS) -2- (4- (2-methylpropyl) phenyl) propanoic acid) from the nomenclature phenolic iso-butyl-propanoic acid) is a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) used for relief symptoms of arthritis, fever as an analgesic (pain relief) especially when there is an inflammatory component and dysmenorrhea.

[000101] Ibuprofen is known to have an antiplatelet effect, although it is relatively mild and of short duration when compared to aspirin and other better known antiplatelet drugs. In general, Ibuprofen also acts as a constricting vessel; having been shown to constrict coronary arteries and some other blood vessels mainly because it inhibits the dilating vessel prolacyclin produced by the enzymes cyclooxygenase 2. Ibuprofen was derived from propanoic acid through the Group's research arm Boots during the 1960s and was patented in 1961. Originally marketed as Brufen, Ibuprofen is available under a variety of popular trade names, which include Motrin, Nurofen, Advil and Nuprin (see US 3,385,886 - Boots).
[000102] Ketoprofen acid (RS) 2- (3-benzophenyl) - propionic is another non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug of the propionic acid class (NSAID) with analgesic and antipyretic effects.

[000103] It works by inhibiting the production of prostaglandins by the body (see U. S. 3.641.127 - Rhone Poulenc).
[000104] Diclofenac is also a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) taken to reduce inflammation and as an analgesic for reducing pain under certain conditions.

[000105] The name is derived from its chemical name: 2- (2,6-dichloranilino) phenylacetic acid. In the United Kingdom, India, Brazil and the United States it can be supplied as either sodium salt or potassium salt. In China almost always like the sodium salt, while in some other countries just like the potassium salt. Diclofenac is available as a generic drug in a number of formulations. Non-prescription use (OTC) is approved in some countries for mild aches and pains and fever associated with common infections (see U.S. 3,558,690 - Ciba-Geisy).
[000106] Metronidazole (2- (2-methyl-5-nitro-1H-imidazol-1-yl) ethanol) is a nitroimidazole antibiotic medication used specifically for anaerobic and protozoan bacteria.

[000107] Metronidazole is an antibiotic, amebicide and antiprotozoan. It is the drug of choice for the first episodes of infection with Clostridium difficile. It is marketed in the United States of America by Pfizer and globally by Sanofi under the trade name of Plagyl, in Pakistan and Bangladesh also as Nidagyl by Star Laboratories, and in Thailand, as Mepagyl by Thai Nekkhom Patana. It is also marketed in the United Kingdom by Milpharm Limited and Almus Pharmaceuticals. Metronidazole was developed in 1960. Metronidazole is also used as a gel preparation for the treatment of dermatological conditions such as rosa-ceae and fungating tumors (see U. S. 2.944.061) - Rhone Poulenc).
[000108] Acyclovir, or acyclovir (formerly BAN, USAN) chemical name acycloganosine 2-Amino-1,9-dihydro-9 - ((2-hydroxyethoxy) methyl) -6H-purin- 6-one), abbreviated as ACV, is an antiviral drug similar to guanosine, marketed under the trade name Cyclovir, Herpex, Acivir, Acivirax, Zovirax and Xovir. The solid active agent has a solubility in water (20 ° dH) at 20 ° C of less than 5 g / liter.

[000109] One of the most commonly used antiviral drugs, it is used primarily for the treatment of herpes simplex virus infections, as well as for the treatment of varicella zoster (chickenpox) and herpes zoster (herpes zoster); see also U. S. 4,199,574 (Welcome).
[000110] Imiquimod (3- (2-methylpropyl) -3,5,8-triazathricycle [7.4.0.0.2,6] - -tridaca-1 (9), 2 (6), 4,7,10, 12 - hexaen-7-amine, INN) is a prescription medication that acts as an immune response modifier.

[000111] It is marketed by Meda AB, Graceway Pharmaceuticalse iNova Pharmaceuticalss under the trade names of Aldara and Zyclara, and through Mochida as Beselna. It is also referred to as R-837 (see U.S. 4,689,338 - Riker).
[000112] Terbinafine, more specifically the terbinafine hydrochloride [(2E) -6,6-dimethylhept-2-en-4-in-1-yl] (methyl) (naftaisen-1-ylmethyl) amine) is a Novartis antifungal synthetic allylamine. It is highly lipophilic in nature and tends to accumulate in the skin, nails and fatty tissues.

[000113] It is marketed under the name of Lamisil in Argentina, Australia, Belgium, Brazil, Canada, Chile, Egypt, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Israel, Mexico, Pakistan, Peru, New Zealand , Noriega, Romania, Russia, Slovenia, South Africa, Sweden, United Kingdom, United States and Venezuela, also marketed under the name Corbinal and Terbisil in Turkey and under the name "undofen cream" in Poland. As a generic it is sold under the name of Zabel in Australia. It is also available as a generic medication in the United States, United Kingdom, Belgium, Switzerland and Brazil. In India, Terbinafine hydrochloride is available in topical form under the brand name of Sebifin (Ranbaxy Labs), Zimig (GSK Pharma) and micoCeaze (Progres Laboratories). MicoVa, developed by Apricus Biosciences is a topical solution for terbinafine and DDAIP nails that completed Phase III studies for the treatment of onychomycosis (see U.S. 4,755,534 - Sandoz)
[000114] Docosanol, also known as behenyl alcohol, is a saturated fatty alcohol traditionally used as an emollient, emulsifier, and binder in cosmetics, nutritional supplements (as an individual entity and also as a constituent of policosanol) and more recently in a pharmaceutical product approved by the Fod and Drug Administration (FDA), Abreva, approved as an antiviral agent for reducing the duration of cold pain caused by the herpes simplex virus.
[000115] Cyclopyroxolamine (6-cyclohexyl-1-hydroxy-4-methylpyridin-2 (1H) -one) also called Batrafen, Loprox, Micoster, Penlac and Stieprox, is a synthetic antifungal agent used for topical dermatological treatment of superficial mycoses.

[000116] It is most used against Tinea versicolor (see U. S. 3,883,545 - Merck). Anti-cellulite agents
[000117] Agents that increase or reinforce the activity of anti-cellulite agents, specifically agents that stimulate and / or depolarize the C fibers of the nerves, are preferably selected from the group consisting of capsaine and its derivatives, vanylyl - nonylamide and its derivatives, L-carnitine, coenzyme A, isoflavonoids, soy strata, pineapple extracts and conjugated linoleic acid. Fat Enhancing Agents
[000118] The formulations and products according to the present invention can also comprise one or more fat-improving agents and / or adipogenic agents as well as agents that improve or reinforce the activity of fat-improving agents. A breeding agent and fat is, for example, hydroxymethoxy phenyl propylmethoxy benzofuran (trade name: Sym3D). Hair Growth Activators or Inhibitors.
[000119] The formulations and products according to the present invention can also comprise one or more hair growth activators, that is, agents to stimulate hair growth. Hair growth activators are preferably selected from the group consisting of pyrimidine derivatives such as 2,4-diaminopyrimidine-3-oxide (Aminaxyl), 2,4-diamino-6-piperidinopyrimidine-3-oxide ( Minoxidil) and derivatives thereof, 6-amino-1,2-dihydro-1-hydroxy-2-imino-4-piperidinopyrimidine and its derivatives, xanthine alkaloids such as caffeine, theobromine and theoteophylline and derivatives thereof , quercetin and derivatives, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin) and derivatives, potassium channel openers, antierogenic agents, synthetic or natural 5-reductase inhibitors, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopheryl nicotinate, benzyl nicotinate and C1-C6 alkyl nicotinate, proteins such as, for example, the Lys-Pro-Val tripeptide, difencypren, hormones, finasteride, dutasteride, flutamide, bicalutamide, pregnane derivatives, progesterone and their derivatives, cyproterone acetate, spironolactone and other diuretics, calcinaurin inhibitors such as FK506 (Tacrolimus, Fujimicin) and derivatives thereof, Cyclosporine A and derivatives thereof, zinc and zinc salts salts, polyphenols, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, phytosterols such as, for example, beta-sitosterol, biotin, eugenol, ( ±) -beta- citronalol, panthenol, glycogen for example of mussels, extract of microorganisms, algae, plants and parts of plants of, for example, the genus deelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum), Orthosifon, Vitex, Cofea, Paulinia, Theobroma, Asiasarum, Cucurbita or Styphnolobium, Sereonaa repens (sawn palm), Sofora flavescens, Pigeum africanum, Panicoum miliaceum, Cimicifuga racemosa, Glycine max, Eugenia caryophilata, Cotinus coggygria, Hibisci Cami-sinansis, nisisis- , Isochrysis galbana, licorice, grape, apple, barley or hops and / or rice or wheat hydrolysates
[000120] Alternatively, the formulations and products according to the present invention can comprise one or more hair growth inhibitors (as described above), i.e. agents for reducing or preventing hair growth. Hair growth inhibitors are preferably selected from the group consisting of activin derived from activin or activin agonists, ornithine deca carboxylate inhibitors, such as alpha-difluoromethylornithine or pentacyclic triterpenes such as, for example, ursolic acid , betulin, betulinic acid, ola-anolic acid and derivatives thereof, 5alpha-reductase inhibitors, erogen receptor antagonists, S-adenosylmethionine decarboxylase inhibitors, gamma-glutamyl transpeptidase inhibitors, transglutaminase inhibitors, bean-derived serine inhibitors soybean, microorganism extract, algae, different microalgae or plants and parts of plants from, for example, the families Leguminosae, Solanaceae, Grainaina, Asclepiadaceae or Cucurbitaceae, the genera Chondrus, Glooperopeltis, Ceramium, Durvilea, Glycine max, Sanguisorba oficinalis, Ca lendula oficinalis, Hamamelis virginiana, Arnicoa montana, Salix alba, Hypericum perforatum or Wild Gymnema. Solutes
[000121] The formulations and products according to the present invention can also comprise one or more compatible solutes. Preferably compatible solutes are such as those described in WO 01/76572, specifically dimio-inositol phosphate (DIP), diglycerin phosphate (DGP), di-myo-inositol phosphate (DIP), 2,3 diphosphogli - cyclic kerate (cDPG), 1,1-di-glycerol phosphate (DGP), beta-mannosyl glycerate (firoin), beta-mannosyl glyceride (firoin-A), and di-mannosyl-di-inositol phosphate ( DMIP) and ectoin and ectoin derivatives, as described in EP 0 553 884, EP 0 671 161 and WO 94/15923, specifically ((S) -1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methyl acid -4-pyrimidine carboxylic acid) and hydroxyectoin ((S, S) -1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-5-hydroxy-2-methyl-4-pyrimidine carboxylic acid).
[000122] Preferably the total amount of compatible solutes is in the range from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation or product . Solvents
[000123] Pharmaceutical formulations may contain such as, for example, aliphatic alcohols or 1,2-alkanedioles or of course simply water.
[000124] 1,2-alkanedioles. Suitable 1,2 alkanediols include 1,2-butadiol, 1,2-pentandiol, 1,2-heptandiol, 1,2-nonandiol, 1,2-decandiol, 1,2-undecandiol, 1,2, dodecandiol and the mixes do the same. 1,2-alkanediol is preferably 1,2-petandiol.
[000125] Aliphatic alcohols. Suitable aliphatic alcohols are selected from the group consisting of ethanol, n-propanol, isopropyl alcohol, isomeric butanols and mixtures thereof. The preferred species is ethanol, specifically with a purity of at least 95%. INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION
[000126] Additional objectives of the present invention relate to a method for (i) improving the stability of an emulsion and / or (ii) decreasing the average particle distribution of the droplets in an emulsion and / or (iii) improving the sensory profile of an emulsion, by adding a working amount of the mixture of 1,2-hexanediol and 1,8-hexanediol • preferably in a weight ratio from about 25:75 to 75:25, more preferably in an amount by weight from about 40:60 to about 60:40 and specifically in an amount by weight of about 50:50, • wherein said amount of work is about 0.1 to about 1.0% by weight, and preferably from about 0.2 to about 0.5% by weight - calculated on the end of the emulsion.
[000127] Finally, another objective of the present invention is related to the use of the binary mixture of 1,2-hexanediol and 1,8 octanediol, preferably in a weight ratio as described above for the simultaneous increase of stability, decreasing the weight distribution particle average and increasing the sensory profile of an emulsion, wherein said binary mixture is preferably with respect to said emulsion in an amount from about 0.1 to about 1.0% by weight and preferably from about 0.2 to about 0.5% by weight - calculated on the end of the emulsion. EXAMPLE 1, COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE C1 TO C2. Antimicrobian activity
[000128] The antimicrobial activity of a mixture of 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol, (1: 1) was investigated and compared with the individual 1,2-diols with respect to 5 prominent microorganisms: EC Echerichia coli PA Pseudomonas aeruginosa SA Staphilococcus aureus CA Candida albicans AN Aspergilus niger
[000129] The results are shown in Table 1. The minimum inhibitory concentrations (MICs) are shown in percentages. Table 1 Antimicrobial activity

[000130] The examples show that the mixture according to the present invention exhibits a synergy with respect to the minimum concentrations to inhibit the growth of 4 out of 5 microorganisms: only with respect to Pseudomonas a small reduction was achieved. EXAMPLE 2, COMPARATIVE EXAMPLES C3 TO C5. Particle size distribution.
[000131] A / O emulsions were prepared by heating a lipid phase A and an aqueous phase B separately to approximately 80 ° C. Then the aqueous phase B was added to the lipid phase A and homogenized using an Ultra-Turrax Stires for 2 minutes at 6,000 rpm. The emulsion obtained in this way was allowed to cool for 10 minutes with the use and a vane shaker at 150 rpm. Finally the pH value was adjusted to about 6.0 by adding an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide. The particle size of the resulting emulsions was determined using a Mastersizer Mico MAF 500 (Malvern) using the laser diffraction principle. Compositions and average particle sizes are shown in Table 2. Comparative Example 2 is a placebo. Comparative Examples C3 and C4 were prepared with the individual 1,2-diols. Example 2 is in accordance with the invention. Table 2. Compositions of O / W emulsions (all amounts in% by weight)

[000132] Regarding the D (v, 0.5) and D (v, 0.9) values, the respective Synergy Index (SI) was calculated according to the Kul equation. Synergy in a composition when the Synergy Index is less than 1, meaning that the lower the SI the greater the synergy. • SI for the D value (v, 0.5) = 0.337 • SI for the D value (v, 0.9) = 0.261
[000133] The particle size distribution with respect to Example 2 and Comparative Examples C2 to C4 is also shown in Figure 1. Index "v" refers to a volume based on the particle size distribution; all values were taken from the sum of distribution Q. For example, the value 1.7 for C2 means that 10% of the particles exhibit a particle size of less than 1.7 μm and so on. As can be seen, the addition of the mixture of 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol shifts the mean particle size to significantly smaller values and leads to more finely divided emulsions compared to 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2 -octanodiol in isolation. The highly synergistic effect can be clearly demonstrated and calculated.
[000134] Figure 2 provides microscopic images of the 4 compositions. The samples were observed through a microscope (Olympus IX 70, 600 times). Figure 2B (= Example 2) an emulsion with a mixture of 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol exhibited significantly smaller particles compared to 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol in isolation (Figures 2C and 2D) and therefore support the results of particle size measurements.

权利要求:
Claims (5)
[0001]
1. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprising an active mixture, characterized by the fact that it comprises (i) 1,2-hexanediol and (ii) 1,2-octanediol, in which the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion (the / w), a water-in-oil emulsion (w / o), or a multiple water / oil / water or oil / water / oil emulsion (W / O / W or O / W / O) with a particle size , where (iii) 10% by volume have a diameter less than 2 μm, (iv) 50% by volume have a diameter less than 5 μm and (v) i) 90% by volume have a diameter less than 15 μm.
[0002]
Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said components (a) and (b) are present in a weight ratio from about 25:75 to about 75:25.
[0003]
Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said components (a) and (b) are present in a weight ratio from about 40:60 to about 60:40.
[0004]
Composition according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that it is a composition for skin care, hair care, sun care, or personal care.
[0005]
5. Method, characterized by the fact that it is to (i) improve the stability of an emulsion and / or (ii) decrease the distribution of average droplet particles in an emulsion and / or (iii) improve the sensory profile of an emulsion by adding a working amount of 0.1 to about 1.0% by weight - calculated on the final emulsion - of a mixture as defined in claim 1, comprising (a) 1,2-hexanediol and (b) 1,2-octanodiol.

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法律状态:
2016-08-02| B03A| Publication of a patent application or of a certificate of addition of invention [chapter 3.1 patent gazette]|

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2019-09-03| B06U| Preliminary requirement: requests with searches performed by other patent offices: procedure suspended [chapter 6.21 patent gazette]|

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2021-03-02| B09A| Decision: intention to grant [chapter 9.1 patent gazette]|

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2021-04-13| B16A| Patent or certificate of addition of invention granted [chapter 16.1 patent gazette]|Free format text: PRAZO DE VALIDADE: 20 (VINTE) ANOS CONTADOS A PARTIR DE 14/01/2016, OBSERVADAS AS CONDICOES LEGAIS. |

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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EP15151564.0|2015-01-18|

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EP15151564.0A|EP3045161A1|2015-01-18|2015-01-18|Active compositions comprising 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol|

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